Rained overnight but clear now as we left Kapuskasing, a Cree name meaning bend in the
river. The pulp mill here supplied the New York Times with newsprint for 50 years. This area is called the Great Northern Portage and you see rapids and dams on many rivers. It’s a vastness of the boreal forest formed in the rugged Canadian Shield, which was originally the fur trading route. There is silence in the forest of huge white pines, some 3’ in diameter and 120’ high. Some are 350 years old and saw the arrival of the first European s. Here, settlements were built from the toil of settlers but there is always the echo of Canada’s Aboriginal peoples. We passed Hearst, a French Canadian town, the base for moose hunting and a starting point for canoe trips to the north. Nagagamisis Provincial Park is noted for its moraines, eskers, lake basins and rivers created by glaciers 10,000 years ago. Passing Beardmore, we saw their huge snowman holding his fishing pole. I think there are a million lakes in Ontario, and the fall colors are just starting to appear. We saw the Temagami Fire Tower; this area has 40 diverse trails, originally carved out by the Anishinbabe tribe as part of a portage system that was used 3000 years ago. The baware of moose pictures are every 5 miles - we've never seen hair but they must come out at night and lick the salt off the road in winter. We stopped beside Lake Helen below Lake Nippigon where the Red Rock Indian reserve is, with its R.C. Church built in 1859. We pulled into Thunder Bay at 4:45, fueled at the Husky for 96.9 and got the same spot at Wal-Mart we had coming out here. The store is closed today on Labour Day and there’s no one is the parking lot.
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